Last week Lourdes and I came from Prague in one of the most interesting trips of our lives. We have to thank Hanna for a couple of warnings that she had for us:
  1) Take warm clothing: we took it, and we did need it.
  2) Prague will need some time to visit it well. Hanna was right again. We did not have enough time. We have to go back.
 
  Outstanding personalities in our trip:
  1) Achab Haidler: Unique, generous and special individual. Actor and director in a Prague theater. His passion is working in Jewish Cemeteries of Bohemia and reporting, completing lists, translating the gravestones from Hebrew. Cleaning, fixing, uncovering the tombstones and researching their secrets hidden by the workings of time or anything else. He does that on his free time!: weekends, vacations. He sleeps and camp outdoors while working. He appears oblivious to weather, seasons, and temperature. His Dog accompanies him. He should be doing this job full time. I think that it is his calling. I do hope he gets the financial support to do that one day. His list of the Cemetery of Ckyne allowed me to know that there were Fantes from the area, and allowed me to get in touch with a new wise and generous cousin: Alexander Woodle, whose help has been invaluable. He had done lot of research for his family including the Fantes(es).
  2) Chubbie: Achab's Dog. A well-behaved energetic and playful African Dog.
  3) Julius Muller: A PhD in Biochemistry and a genealogist. A clever man and a good person without a doubt. He is a master in researching Czech Archives and has an incredible insight in where to look for missing links. He had provided a great deal of the information about Fantes. For instance: uncovering the connections of Ignaz, Joseph, Jakob, Josefine Dubsky and their connections to Ckyne, Straz, Jindrchuv Hrade. Also found out the trades of some of those Fantes.
  4) Josef Lavicka: Matrikar of the city of the City of Ckyne. A generous Czech who goes out of his way to help
  5) Jindra Bromova: Coordinating a Project of recovery of Ckyne's Synagogue that has the ultimate goal of transforming it in the Jewish Museum of the Town. Probably, the museum will be the best witness for the Jewish families who helped to build the Synagogue.
 
  Day 1
  In search for the best offer to fly to Prague, we found a flight of Air France: Miami-Paris-Prague arriving in Prague at 5 p.m. We arrived in Prague in a foggy, cold, dark and rainy afternoon. By the time, we left the airport and driving under a very difficult visibility, we safely found the Hotel in Prague that we were going to spend the night. What a blessing is a comfortable bed when you are tired!.
 
  Day 2
  "Friedrich FANTES, son of Ignatz FANTES, salesman of Marien Bad (Marianske Lazne) and Josephina FANTES nee DUBSKY of Platz am den Naser, was born in Marien Bad in April 22, 1889. As listed in the book of birth records 1870-1895, HBMa 1171, Friedrich had brothers Oskar b. Dec. 2, 1880, Emil b. Nov. 18, 1884, Max b. June 26, 1887, Artur b. May 4, 1891 and Joseph b. Feb. 27, 1894. Ignatz also had sisters Berta b. April 3, 1879 and Hermine b. Dec. 6, 1882." Julius M.
 
  After a good breakfast, we were eager to go to Marienbad. We looked at the map and found that the fastest route was through Plsen. We had no problems with that, because we were familiar with Hanna connection to Pilsen, therefore we did not mind getting lost there for a while.
 
  Achab was waiting for us at the Jewish Cemetery in Marienbad where he had been working for the last couple of days. He had written me through the internet that he had been unable to find Ignaz and Josefine Fantes gravestones. Also told me, that the Cemetery had sustained significant damage during the Nazi occupation and years of neglect during communist rule.
 
  Our drive began through a light rain and quickly we were off and running to Plsen. In Plsen, we decided to drive through downtown and other sites of midtown. It was surprising to me how many old tall buildings there were, and how big the city was. I had a vision of a relative smaller town. We did not mind being lost in Pilsen although we had no maps of the city. We enjoyed the experience. We were ready to go to Marianske Lazne via Stribo. With all the driving, we had no idea where North or East was. I made a right turn to begin asking how to get to Stribo or Marienbad. Our first enquiry was to a gentleman that had no idea of English (nor we understand any Czech or so I thought!) but he could guess "Marianske Lazne".
 
  No English and friendly help was a common finding with our Czech interactions in the rest of our trip. He gave us a long explanation in Czech, and I had no idea what he said. Lourdes told me he had said to go straight and we will find a sign that reads Sribo shortly, if we continue straight. Skeptically, I continue straight and we found our road to Marienbad. In addition, I found a reliable Czech translator sitting next to me. This was a consistent finding during the whole trip.
 
  Our drive was nice. We drove through small towns in a narrow road, with sharp hills and sharp turns, surrounded by a wooden landscape with very tall trees. The weather opened up big time and we were approaching Marienbad. A sign of good luck maybe?
 
  We went almost straight to the Cemetery to find Achab. As Heini described it, it was in a wooden area that was just off the town. There they were, Achab and his dog Chubbie waiting for us. He expressed his sorrow for not finding Fantes(es) gravestones. As I was making enquires of Holocaust victims and a possible memorial in that cemetery. I approached a dirty thinned stoned. Through the dirt it could be seen several names. In the middle of the stone Josef and Erna Fantesovi.
 
  I knew Fantes, Josef and Erna but not Fantesovi. I called for help and a good clean up by Achab showed clearly Fantesovi, which he explained me was a plural for Fantes. In addition, we found some stones upside down without proper identification, and we planned with Achab to lift the stones with proper help in the near future. Fantes or no Fantes it does not matter. No gravestones deserve to be fallen upside down.
 
  Achab said goodbye and left for some extra work in a nearby cemetery in which some voluntaries were waiting for him. We were to find him in two days in the Ckyne cemetery. He was taking a day of vacation from his regular work to drive with us by different towns of South Bohemia.
 
  Lourdes and I went for lunch. We had the translated options in the menu either from Czech, German or Russian. My translator understand spoken Czech but not written, so a sharp waiter bailed us out of trouble then. We went to the Hotel and prepared to find now Schwarzer Adler. I bought a map of Marianzke Lazne, and showed Heini's picture of the "Black Eagle" to the receptionist, who pointed without hesitation in the map where it was located. I could not believe it. Prime real estate location!. We walked a few minutes and we were there: The best view in town.
 
  Next to the Hotel Hvezda which formerly was called "Hotel Stern". We found that the house was in need of some repairs in comparison to the picture I had. We went to the Hotel and make inquires about the house. Again, friendly responses and no English. Lourdes translation : repairs will began in a few months and will be transformed into a Hotel. By that time I had begun to trust more and more Lourdes feeling for the Czech language. I am willing to bet that repairs will begin soon.
 
  We walked the town up and down. No Spa-type treatments or massages for us. Just it was pure and honest walking through the town. The town of Gold. Most of the buildings painted in Golden yellow. Marienbad indeed is a Golden town.
 
  Day 3
  "Ignatz was born in December 21, 1852.. Joseph is the one who according to Ckyne Familiant Book was born in 1804 to Jakob and Franciska nee LEWIT FANTES.
 
  there was another Ignatz FANTES born to Latzar and Anna nee LEDERER FANTES, in March 9, 1864. This family dwelled in Ckyne house no. 96. Latzar was son FANTES families :
 
  # 27 = "patriarch" Jakob and Franciska nee LEWIT FANTES # 27 = Leopold and Barbara nee ZDEKAUER FANTES # 60 = Markus and Theresia nee POPPER FANTES of Leopold and Barbara FANTES.
 
  Ignatz FANTES was born in December 21, 1852 in Ckyne. Parents : Joseph FANTES, butcher, and Anna, daughter of Samuel LÖWI. There is no info on Joseph parents in Ignatz´s birth record but I will certainly follow the line and let you know more when you come, I hope.
 
  Ignatz´s siblings were : Jacob b. December 21, 1845, Franciska b. May 22, 1847, Herman b. February 17, 1849, Barbara b. January 16, 1851. All incl. your Ignatz dwelled in Ckyne house no. 90. I am about to put Ckyne 1838 map on web so you can see that today or tomorrow or in Prague directly. Please, check the site http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/Palace/6691/ckynemap.jpg House no.90 is the one close to synagogue on right." Julius M.
 
  We were ready to head down to South Bohemia. Lourdes felt that we should give another look at the cemetery. My vote was against the plan and felt that we had to leave at 7.30 A.M to South Bohemia.
 
  Lourdes was not too happy with my plans so we took hers. The cemetery opens its gates at 9.00 A.M, and we had to wait until the cemetery open its gates. It was 10.00 A.M and no gates opened yet. There was an unhappy German Sheppard Dog not too friendly looking , just waiting for me to jump the gates. But, I just decided not to comply with the dog's wishes and headed to South Bohemia. Lourdes and the German shepherd were satisfied. They both were winners. I also won (in a way at least) and was safe in two fronts.
 
  What a different drive!. The roads are still narrow. The towns are still small. But the road only had lazy curves and mild hills. Much less trees and more open landscapes. A sense of total peace fills the air in South Bohemia.
 
  We drove through Volyne, Ckyne, Bohumilice and to Vimperk our final destination. The land of another Ignaz Fantes, a cousin of our Ignaz Fantes.
 
  After leaving our luggage in the Hotel, we left for Bohumilice (prior Skalice) where presumably Jakob Fantes was coming from and his father Juda Fantes. We did not have any clues what to look for in there. But we visited the village and took some nice shots there in a beautiful blue-skied day. After a short visit, finally to Ckyne armed with a map from Ckyne's 1800's, provided by an internet Site run by Julius Mueller, with the numbers of the Jewish houses including the Fantes(es).
 
  Feeling confident with my map, I began to search in order of age the Fantes Houses. First house number 27, Jakob Fantes.
 
  Oops!, we found the house 27 alright, but it wasn't corresponding to map. In fact, the house that corresponded to the map was in a street without direct access. My partner started to doubt my map skills that have been unshakeable for a number of years. Lourdes wanted to ask somebody, she trusted people and it does not matter what language they speak. I trust maps fully. However, I learned that I shouldn't be so trusty when I am reading an ancient map. She won. We had to ask somebody.
 
  Our candidate was a nice man with a bag hanging in his shoulder full of papers. The Mailman I thought...perfect. I sent my partner, co-pilot, wife and now Czech translator with a map to ask the fellow. She does not want to do anything with maps so she steps down armed with Spanish, English and her own arms to find the Fantes(es) home. After a while Lourdes and the presumed Mailman came to the Car.
 
  As I suspected, a very friendly smile and not a word of English!. Lourdes said "he wants to come with us". I asked "where?". Answer: "I don't know". So in a few seconds the fellow was in the car giving instructions to Lourdes, and she in turn instructed me what to do: straight...left....right.
 
  That went on for a few minutes, till we arrived to biggest building in town: the municipality. We stepped down. He knew I was a Fantes in search of their homes. How he knew this is still a mystery to me.
 
  He opened the building with his own keys and everybody in the building said hello to him with the utmost respect. He opened the door of very large office and signed us to sit in comfortable chairs. Promptly, he had two secretaries bringing him a handful of handwritten book notes back and forth. He in turn transcribed more notes into a separate piece of paper.
 
  Obviously, he was not the Mailman. I knew that when I entered the building. This generous person was Josef Lavicka: the "Matrikar" of the city of the City of Ckyne!. He gave me as a present a book in Czech of the history of Ckyne.
 
  He took us to the houses # 60 Markus Fantes (Josef Fantes brother), house # 96 Lazar Fantes (Josef Fantes nephew), # 27 Jakob Fantes (Josef Fantes father) and then # 90 Josef Fantes home. Just around the corner from the old Ckyne's Synagogue. Mr. Lavicka saved the day thank you.
 
  Ready to go back to Vimperk for a good night sleep. Vimperk is at about 10 to 15 minutes drive uphill of Ckyne. In the book of Hugo Gold on Jewish of Bohemia that is in German and Alex Woodle copied the chapters of Vimperk and Marienbad for me, the Fantes(es) are mentioned several times as active members of the Jewish community. Alois, Leopold and Ignaz Fantes are mentioned a few times. The pictures of Alois and Ignaz are included in the chapter of Vimperk.
 
  Day 4
  "Meanwhile I found quite miracously the marriage record of Ignatz FANTES. They married in Jindrichuv Hradec in June 5, 1878. Ignatz FANTES (25), son of Joseph and Anna FANTES married Josephine DUBSKY (26).
 
  Friedrich FANTES, son of Ignatz FANTES, salesman of Marien Bad (Marianske Lazne) and Josephina FANTES nee DUBSKY of Platz am den Naser, From Julius M.
 
  We wake up early. We knew that Achab was coming later in the morning to work some and help us in identifying stones and to accompany us as well. Alex Woodle sent me already pictures with many of the tombstones of the Ckyne Cemetery. Armed with these copies we headed to the Cemetery.
 
  Our first challenge was to find the Cemetery. It was a gorgeous spring date. There was not a cloud in the skies of Ckyne. A bit on the cold side, especially, for a couple who lives in Key Biscayne. We stopped in the Center of Ckyne for a cup of coffee and to find out where the cemetery was, through asking only, and no Maps.
 
  My translator went out, and I thought it was a good opportunity to ask for the Jewish Cemetery and to demonstrate myself that I could do it. I had a handicap, the very nice lady I was talking to should had been over her 90's...... and very hard of hearing.
 
  Again, a big smile and no English. ....and hard of hearing. Time was of the essence. My partner was coming in any moment now. I wanted to get directions by myself.
 
  My English and Spanish Vocabulary took me nowhere. My sign language brought a big smile and a question. Her question: "Hotel?", my hopeless answer "no Hotel, Cemetery!, Cemetery!!". As my translator came, I just paid my coffee. I wanted to tip her, and under no circumstance, she accepted the tip. Big smiles again and warm good byes and we left.
 
  My translator decided to ask for help outside the Coffee house. She did and had a long explanation in Czech by another nice Czech citizen from Ckyne.
 
  She instructed me to get into the Car. "turn right, go straight, continue straight", I said "what?, we are leaving town now!". She said "that is what he told me to go straight, straight, straight ahead, and it was on the right side". I said "I don't believe it, we are leaving town don't you see?", she then told me "I think is there, at that nice hill, passing the railroad track"...and what else is new... my translator was right again.
 
  I took all my copies and began the Job of identifying the Fantes Tombstones. Lourdes meanwhile was taking photos. We identified the the gravestones of: Ignaz Fantes, Alois Fantes, Anna Fantes, Otto Fantes, Sarl Fantes and others. I decided to see if going stone by stone I could find the lost Joseph or Jakob Fantes gravestones. A really outside chance there since Achab had that cemetery well searched. No luck there. As I was looking and had two lines to go, Achab and happy Chubbie arrived. I asked Achab about the Stones written only in Hebrew if I had correctly identified as Fantes and he told me that we had a good eye. We were right.
 
  I asked him about the other missing Fantes and he was not very optimistic on the Surface stones that he had already checked. His answer: maybe deeper. Alternatively, the stones have been stolen. He said that he would look deeper. He is doing that right now, as I write this letter.
 
  He took photographs for his careful work of documentation. Then we met Jindra Bromova at the Cemetery, who guided us and opened the Synagogue for us. She explained us the difficult, slow, challenging and wonderful project of recovery that she is leading in the Synagogue. There was no doubt in my mind that Jindra is very special and her fight is for a very worthy cause. She deserves all the help.
 
  Achab, Lourdes, Chubbie and I got into the Car, drove in the direction of our final destination of Straz, and to visit the Jewish Cemetery where Achab was to help us to check for Dubsky(s) family members. We were to drive trough Trebon, Ceske Budejovice , Straz and Jidrchuv Hrade.
 
  Achab had a copy of current map and guided us through all the towns. All different sizes and yet all beautiful . Ceske Budejovice was the largest of them, in fact, it was a full scale city with difficult traffic and all. It was full of large old buildings. It is home of the famous beer Budweiss known for its sweeter taste. Jindrchuv is a magnificent and beautiful medieval city with old pavestone streets. The river runs through the middle of the town. The river reflects like a mirror their treasured buildings, and castle.
 
  We arrived in Straz Jewish Cemetery just off the side of the road in a wooden area. The cemetery was well taken care but locked up. We jumped the walls and Chubbie stayed quite upset ouside. He did not like to be left out one bit. He tried all his tricks: barking, crying, trying to get over the wall, from above, or below.... to no avail.
 
  We found a large group of Dubky(s) in Straz: Julius, Hermine, Abraham, Herman Dubky(s) have been buried there among other members of the Dubsky, Lowy, Fantl families.
 
  Time to get back. Drove back and Achab and Chubbie stayed in Ceske Budejovice to take the next train to Prague. We drove back to Vimperk. It was a nice relax drive back to our based Hotel.
 
  Day 5
  I waked up early before sunrise as usual. As I was looking out the window: everything was white. It wasn't a dream. It was snowing heavily at the end of March!. I remember the last snowstorm I lived in 1988 in Atlanta. The city shot down for a week. As we had breakfast and seeing everybody driving comfortable through a partial white road with a landscape that was heavily covered with clean white fresh snow, reminds that Vimperk is a ski town.
 
  Well, no problem. We ski as well, although water skiing is what is big in Key Biscayne. Driving back to Prague?. No problem either, for a couple of Venezuelans living is South Florida. Drive slowly and enjoy the ride we said. Enjoy we did.
 
  We had the opportunity to visit Ckyne again but now in white dress. Magnificent. I could see clearer the Fantes living in this mountainous Village as many Jews had to live then. We just were blessed to see how Ckyne lives in two different seasons. In this case, it was only two seasons in two days.
 
  Pictures of the town again: Joseph's house, cemetery, and town in white. We then drove to Prague. Meals, meetings and resting for the rest of the day (it was heavily raining outside).
 
  Day 6
  Visit to old town Prague under a cold rain. Prague makes every other city boring. What other city has Medieval, Gothic, Classical, Baroque all included?. Magnificent Churches nearby to beautiful Synagogues. Monumental Castles, Monasteries, Palaces, Theaters are all there. History is all there as well. The rain could not erase the soul of the city. We could breath it; we could feel it. Time was short as Hanna predicted.
 
  The same day Julius Muller came to visit us in the Hotel and we spent some time talking. We found him an extremely pleasant and nice person, like as almost everybody part of this story. His information has been golden for us. He complemented the information that you Heini and Alex Woodle have sent my way. He had done an extraordinary job for me. He handed me a letter summarizing key information on Jakob, Josef and Ignaz Fantes including this:
 
  "(HBMa 260 record from Ckyne) Groom: Joseph Fantes (41) butcher master of Ckyne No. 90, son of Jakob Fantes, butcher and Franziska Nee Lewit Fantes, received his marriage license Sept. 26, 1844, no. 47 141. Marriage date: Oct/23/1844 Bride: Anna Lewy (30), daughter of Samuel Lewy of Deutsch Rust (Podboransky Rohozec nowadays) and Franziska Lewy, Nee Lewy of Chlum" Julius M.
 
  Lourdes decided that it was a good day for the Theater. The opera was sold out. Our first difficulty was the language, even for my translator. We decided for a play that will have no need for translation like the recommended Ballet: "The Lanterna Magika".
 
  Day 7
  It was my academic day. Lourdes went to more touring and to buy presents under a cold persistent rain. At night, an academic evening as well. The following day, we flew back to Key Biscayne.
 
  Best wishes to all.
 
  Francisco
 
  8 Orchard Way,
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